Changing Brakes on Classic Cars

What Makes a Car “Classic”?

For many insurance companies, a car is considered classic when it is 25 years or older. For example, a 2000 model is typically recognized as classic in 2025. Some specialty insurers may accept cars as young as 20 years, but the 25+ rule is common.

Classic status affects how you maintain the vehicle. Brakes on a 1970 Mustang, a 1984 300ZX, or a 1998 Mazda Miata each present unique needs because of design differences across eras.

Brake Types Found on Older Cars

• Drum Brakes – Common through the 1970s and early 1980s. Simple and durable.
• Disc Brakes – Became widespread in the late 1960s on performance models and standard by the 1980s.
• Front Disc / Rear Drum – A mixed setup seen on many cars from the 1970s–1990s.
• Hydraulic vs. Manual – Older cars may not have power assist. Manual brakes require a firmer press at the pedal.

How to Measure Brakes When You’re Unsure

If you’re not certain what brake size you have, follow these steps:

1. Wheel Removal: Remove the wheel to expose the brake. For drum brakes, take off the drum; for disc brakes, you’ll see the rotor.
2. Measure Diameter: Use a tape measure across the widest point. Drum brakes can be 8", 9", 10"; discs are often 10"+ depending on the car.
3. Check Thickness / Width: Rotors often specify minimum thickness (e.g., min. 22mm). This is usually stamped on the part or in the service manual.
4. Reference the VIN or Manual: If available, use the vehicle’s service manual or online parts lookup with the VIN to confirm exact brake part numbers and specs.

Instructional Video

Above is a step-by-step demonstration breaking down the removal and installation of brake components. Pay attention to measuring rotor wear and adjusting drum brakes as shown around the mid-video.

Essential Tools for Working on Older Brakes

Older cars often require specific or robust tools because rust and age change how parts behave. Recommended tools include:

• Jack and quality jack stands
• Brake spring pliers and hold-down tools
• Caliper piston tool (for disc brakes)
• Brake drum puller
• Torque wrench (set to manufacturer torque specs)
• Brake cleaner and rust penetrant (e.g., penetrating oil)
• C-clamp or brake compressor tool
• Brake line flare tool (if you need to replace lines)

Key Checks When Changing Brakes on Older Cars

When working on vintage cars, you’ll often encounter age-related issues. Keep these points in mind:

• Corrosion: Rusted bolts may require heat or penetrating oil before removal.
• Lubrication: Apply suitable high-temp grease where recommended (e.g., caliper slides).
• Brake Lines: Inspect for cracking or rust through. Old rubber lines can fail under pressure.
• Hardware: Replace springs, clips, and retainers on drum systems rather than reuse worn components.
• Fluid: Bleed the system and replace old brake fluid. Over time fluid absorbs moisture and lowers performance.

Winter Storage Tips to Protect Your Brakes

Proper storage helps preserve brake condition through cold months:

• Clean and Dry: Wash wheels and brakes to remove grime, then ensure the car is dry before covering.
• Use a Cover: A breathable cover prevents moisture build-up that leads to rust.
• Brake Moisture Prevention: Store the car on stands if possible to reduce tire flat spots and brake contact stress.
• Periodic Movement: Turn the wheels slightly once a month to avoid brake pad adhesion to rotors or drums.

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I replace brake pads on a classic car?

The interval varies by use, but a reasonable range is every 30,000–40,000 km (18,000–25,000 miles) on street-driven classics.

Can I install modern disc brakes on a drum-brake classic?

Yes. Conversion kits exist for many classic models. They improve stopping power and often fit with original wheels.

Do I need special brake fluid for older cars?

Use DOT 3 or DOT 4 as specified by the manufacturer. Always replace old fluid rather than top up if it looks dark or contaminated.

What if I find seized brake components?

Apply penetrating oil, allow time to soak, and use heat carefully if needed. Replace badly seized parts rather than force them.